Capa Stefanel / Stefanel Cape
This is my most recent sewing project, the Stefanel cape. It’s a pattern from spanish magazine Patrones nr. 262. I must say I’m very pleased for how this project turned out. It was my first one with collar and lining and I learnt a lot of new things.
Entretanto comprei a Burda 08/2008 que traz outra capa giríssima com passo-a-passo e eu pensei que seria mais fácil começar por esse modelo. Tenho de agradecer à minha amiga Inês (que se apaixonou por esta capa também e a queria em exclusivo ;) ), porque estávamos a ver as revistas e ela olhou para este molde e disse “não parece assim tão difícil, pelo contrário” (ela não costura mas tem acompanhado a tia, que costura muito bem). E eu comecei a olhar para o molde com mais atenção...
I bought the magazine because of this cape but I never thought make it so soon: because Patrones’ instructions aren’t very explicit, because it has collar and lining which was quite new to a beginner, because I needed to find the right fabric…
Meanwhile, I bought BWOF 08/2008 which brings another beautiful cape with a “how to sew” and I thought that was easier start by this last one. I must thank my friend Inês (whom fell in love with this cape too and wanted it in exclusive ;) ), because we were seeing the magazines and she looked to this pattern and said “it doesn’t like so difficult, it even seems easy” (she doesn’t sew but she’s followed her aunt whom sews very well). So I started look the pattern with more attention… Shortly thereafter, Ana warns that arrived fall/winter fabrics to our usual shop in Lisbon and when I go there I see this fabric, perfect to this pattern… I had to start sewing!
A gola foi o (primeiro) grande desafio porque eu nunca tinha feito nenhuma. Como a Patrones não é pródiga em detalhes, fiz alguma pesquisa, recorrendo aos meus dois livros de costura (O Grande Livro da Costura e o Burda - Costura de A a Z) e aos passo-a-passo das minhas revistas Easy Fashion e ao Couture et Tricot.
Entretelei, tentei dar a folga para a curva mas senti alguma dificuldade por o tecido ser grosso e não ter uma almofada de alfaiate. Mas no fim acho que não ficou nada mal. Não está perfeita mas para uma primeira gola acho que correu bem.
The collar was my (first) big challenge because I’d never done one before. As Patrones isn’t very rich in details, I made some research consulting my two sewing books, my Burda Easy Fashion magazines and Tany’s blog. I’ve interfaced and I’ve tried to curve but I felt some difficulty because fabric is very thick and I don’t have a tailor ham. In the end, it doesn’t turned out perfect but for a first collar I think it turned out quite well.
The funny part was when I get to the hemming… I thought that it was better making a hemming facing instead of a normal hemming (because the fabric was very thick and the edge is very round) like this:
I realized that that technique wouldn’t result anyway and I decided making a hand sewing hem instead. My mum thought me to make the invisible stitch for the hem which she used to use to make the pants and skirts hems:
Finally, applying the lining. Lining is a very beautiful, satin like, heavy, smooth fabric I found on haberdasher Nardo in Lisbon town. It was the most beautiful lining fabric I found, it has a very pleasant texture and it wasn’t expensive at all.
A técnica dos pontos invisíveis pesquisei no blogue da Tany, mas só estava a ver uma perspectiva para os fazer, foi a minha mãe que me ensinou a fazê-los de outra perspectiva, por isso tenho de agradecer às duas! Em baixo, duas perspectivas de coser o forro:
On magazine's photo one could see the lining laying loose but I didn’t want it like that. So, I’d sewed it with the machine near the collar, to get more resistance and to catch the clamp (I’m not sure if this is the correct name).
The invisible stitch I found in Tany’s blog, but I was only seeing one perspective of doing it, it was my mum whom taught me again to make the invisible stitch by another perspective, so I must thank to both! Below, two perspectives on sewing the lining:
I’d decided to make a clamp(?) for hanging the cape: I've cut and sewed a little bias tape of lining fabric and then I turned it and applied it.
After all this work I’m thinking that is very easy this fabric get dirty… But I saw that there is a service available on professional laundries called waterproofing. I’m thinking use this service in this piece. It’s a good manner of getting more impermeable and makes more difficult to stains joining the fabric.
Etiquetas: costura / sewing